It's hard to add metal to the feedramp after you drum sanded it off.)
(Gunsmith tip: When you get FTFs like this, check the extractor before you start breaking out the Dremel to 'polish' the feed ramp. Which also might really mean that the rim is stuck at the breech face and can't slide up under the extractor hook. It was like I had loaded 8 rounds into the mag. But with 4 fresh mags the bullets failed to feed on the first round. Ok, I am using McCormick mags, and they are pretty old. "It's OK, T-Bolt, I just popper for a $3500 custom Wilson 1911." You aren't getting out of here only spending $1000 on the gun and $300 worth of gunsmith improvements. Jeez, you want egg in your beer, too? To get that requires a bit more work. "But I love 1911s and want to compete at a high level in Bulls Eyes competitions, T-Bolt, where inch groups at 50 yards is critical!" Or replace and adjust the extractor tension. Change out the recoil spring and firing pin spring. Something you love will bring you more joy.Īfter that their are other easy improvements. Your frame can be rattly and finish look horrible and the headspace be loose, but if you get that $200 trigger job (or less) on your gun and you are almost to aces. The hard part for you is finding a good gunsmith to do a good trigger job. "But I love 1911s, and don't want mine to be a dog or unsafe, T-Bolt! What do I do? I spent a grand on this and it might be unusable?!! WTF?" Cheaper materials, cheaper parts, less critical angles result in a well functioning plastic gun that is cheaper and easier to maintain. Things like this are why 1911s are expensive and striker fired tupperware are not. Make these critical angles unimportant, or less important, and the parts truly interchangeable without a high degree of skill and ability with the assembler. With the leaf spring fingers to get a crisp trigger or a roll trigger, 5Īll THIS is what modern plastic pistols seek to improve upon. You can see after using a smoke lamp on that facet, THEN you can play If you have a good neutral sear engagement with lots of good contact Two frames made one right after the other may have slightly different angles to the pin holes alone that hold the hammer and sear in the gun. Because of the tolerances and differences between guns this can't be a drop in part. Probably fitting a new hammer unless the original one has plenty of meat on it (this is often the case) to adjust the hammer hook height and faces, but almost always getting a new, good, sear and putting the correct angle on it., If your gunsmith knows what he is doing. When you take your 1911 to the gunsmith for a trigger job this is what he is doing. With negative engagement the gun doen't want to return to the above diagram when you stop applying pressure to the trigger. This is easier to see with the thumb safety removed, but you can do it just by feel. I am starting to see and feel what a 1911 with negative Sear-Hammer engagement by pulling the hammer my ownself. Yup, I can see the disconnetor wiggle, I can see from the smoke lamp the left hammer hook is what is holding the sear and that by only 10% of the surface, and. "How do you know he isn't just blowing smoke, T-Bolt?"īecause I've then seen the results after a detail stripping. He hasn't even looked at it with his eyes, closely, yet. Other things as well that I haven't begun to grok. Multiple safety checks with the thumb and grip safety and. Whether the Sear-Hammer engagement is negative or not. He pulls the trigger on a gun brought into his shop and can tell if the disconnector is loose in its hole, whether both hammer hooks are engaged and which one isn't if so. I am only part way to understanding this myself, but it is sort of a gunsmith goal. The gunsmith can pull the trigger and discern many things. Or, you can take your new gun home, do the checks, and return the gun unfired, maybe, if they'll let you, if it isn't up to snuff. In the rare chance someone will let you detail strip a gun you are bout to buy you do all sorts of checks. Great! Now you are turning into a discerning 1911 owner and buyer.
#Mike smiff all gas no brakes 3 zip share how to#
Intermediate Armorers Class you learn all the ins and out on your fun of good frame to slide lock up, what kind of sear hammer engagement your gun has, how to check and adjust your extractor tension. "Hey, T-Bolt, the hammer falls if I squeeze really hard with the safety on, then take my finger off the trigger and disengage the thumb safety." Yeah, that's bad. Basic Armorers Class you learn how to detail strip a 1911 and put it back together and whether your gun is safe or unsafe.
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